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Acoma
A New Mexican Pueblo, famous for white pottery, most of which is painted with fine geometric lines; one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in North America.
Ajax Turquoise
The small Ajax mine, located in south central Nevada in the Royston area, is one of the relatively new southwest turquoise mines. The mine yields stones from light blue with darker blue veins to a predominate dark green with light blue areas. This latter coloration is considered quite unusual for southwest turquoise.
Alloy
An alloy is the homogeneous mixture or solid solution of two or more metallic elements or metallic and nonmetallic elements. The alloy is usually achieved by bringing the metals to a molten state under high temperatures and fusing or dissolving them into one solid solution. In jewelry, combining different metals is commonly done to augment the color, hardness and/or luster of the resulting alloy.
Amber
Amber is a fossilized resin from pine trees. Amber deposits have been found that are over 150 million years old, but most amber used in jewelry or ornamentals is 20-90 million years old. As the sticky resin oozed from ancient pine trees, small insects, plant material, feathers and other small objects in the path of the flow became entrapped. Over time, the resin was encased in dirt and debris and through a process of heat and pressure it fossilized to become amber. Amber exhibits a resinous luster. Also, see reconstituted amber and inclusions.
Amethyst
Amethyst is the purple variety of quartz. To be called amethyst, it must be the purple form of quartz although it can display a wide range of purple shades including purple, lilac and mauve. The most valuable amethyst is a deep purple.
Anasazi
The Prehistoric Pueblo Indians of northern Arizona and New Mexico referred to as the Ancient Ones, believed to be the ancestors of many of the Pueblo Indians.
Antique Finish
Antique Finish is a chemical finish applied to jewelry to make it appear old. Liver of Sulfur has been the industry standard used to apply a darkened gray/black or "oxidized" appearance to silver, copper or bronze and is accomplished by repeated applications. Yellowish, reddish brown, purple or blueish hues can be obtained by using weak solutions sometimes in combination with other chemicals. There are also a number of commercial products available to obtain an antique look.
Apple Coral
Apple Coral is rare and hard to find since coral collection was banned worldwide in 1992. The United States currently has an import ban on corals. Apple Coral is naturally a dark brick red; however it lightens with exposure to heat or extended direct sunlight.
Avanu
A popular design (the water serpent) often seen in Native American art of the Southwest, particularly pottery, signifying the prayer for and representation of water, critical for life in the desert.
Aventurine
Aventurine is a translucent to opaque variety of microcrystalline quartz. Small inclusions of shiny minerals give the stone a sparkling effect known as aventurescence. Aventurine ranges in color from green, peach, brown, blue and a creamy green.
Azurite
Azurite is a copper-based mineral that ranges in color from very deep blue to pale blue. A relatively soft mineral, azurite has a hardness of 3.5 to 4. Azurite is found in many areas of the world including: Australia, the southwestern USA, France, Mexico, Morocco, Namibia, Zaire, and Europe.
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Bail
A Bail holding a Pendant on a strand of beads.
Hand Made Sterling Silver Bail.
A Bail is a component of certain types of jewelry, mostly necklaces, that is used to attach a pendant. The bail is normally placed in the center of the necklace where the pendant hangs. Bails can have many shapes and sizes. It is common to see stamped designs on the bail from simple lines to elaborate floral designs. The larger the bail, the more room for intricate stamping.
Bamboo Coral
Bamboo Coral found in both warm, shallow-water and cold, deep water marine habitats throughout the worlds oceans. Bamboo corals possess a skeletal arrangement which resembles bamboo. The skeleton is composed of calcareous plates.
Bangle
Bangle is a rigid bracelet, either wide or narrow, that slips on over the wrist. Typically bangles had a hinge to facilitate putting them on, but many are simply solid metal. A new style of bangle is made with wire beads.
Beadwork
The art or craft of attaching beads to one another or to cloth using a needle and thread. Most beadwork takes the form of jewelry or other personal adornment, but beads are also used in wall hangings and sculpture.
Bear
BearA popular symbol in Southwest art, often seen as a fetish, in weaving, on pottery, and in silverwork, sometimes with a heartline, extending from the mouth to the center of the body.
The Bear is a potent source of strength for many Native Americans. Admired for their strength, independence, and self reliance, the Spirit of the Bear was often invoked before entering battle. Warriors sometimes painted their faces with marks resembling bear claw scratches and carried double-edged knives with handles carved from the jawbones of bears as good luck charms. It was believed that bear power could also cure illness. Shamans or medicine men from many different groups frequently dressed as bears when working to heal the sick. Just as honoring the bear spirit could bring blessings to people, provoking the spirit might bring them harm. For that reason, some tribes, most notably the Apache, forbade their hunters to kill a bear, or even to touch the carcass of one found dead in the woods.
Bear Paw
| This symbol is frequently used in painting, pottery and silverwork. The Bear Claw or Bear Paw is a powerful symbol of inner strength. The claws and paws of any animal are presented as a way of summoning the spirit of the animal. It's also a way of honoring and showing respect to the animal's spirit. It will appear frequently if the the artist's name or clan is tied to the Bear. The Bear Claw is a strong element to add to an object, implies fierceness and strong action. |
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Bezel
A Bezel is a ring or band of metal that surrounds a cabochon or faceted stone.
Bead blasting
The process of removing surface deposits by applying fine glass beads at a low pressure without damaging the surface. It is used to clean calcium deposits from pool tiles or any other surfaces, and removes embedded fungus and brightens grout color. This process is notably used as an efficiently popular way to clean tile surfaces in swimming pools. It is also used in auto body work to remove paint.
Beveled
A surface that is cut at an angle-usually less than 90 degrees - with respect to another surface.
Bisbee Turquoise
The Bisbee mine, near Bisbee, Arizona, is one of the more famous of the American mines because Bisbee Southwest turquoise was one of the first put onto the market. The Southwest turquoise mine is part of the Bisbee copper mine, the main operation of the site.Bisbee Southwest turquoise has developed a reputation as a hard, finely webbed, strikingly brilliant blue stone of a high quality. The unusual matrix forms wisps or veils throughout the stone, often called "Smoky Bisbee." The highest grade of Bisbee is found at less than 100 feet, however, at Lavender Pit, good Bisbee was discovered at 2,000 feet. Bisbee is one of the most expensive Southwest turquoises because of its rarity, high density and extremely good character. Last year Phelps Dodge Mining Company declared Bisbee depleted and buried the mine under 50 feet of dirt.
Black on black
A style of pottery developed about 1919 by Maria and Julian Martinez of San Ildefonso Pueblo. It is characterized by two shades of black one highly polished, the other matte or dull.
Blue Diamond Turquoise
The Blue Diamond mine, located in central Nevada, opened in the late 1950s and was mined up to 1980. This mine is considered a hat mine of which which there are very few. A hat mine is a small deposit of Southwest turquoise that, you can cover with your hat. The stones that this mine produces, which are usually large pieces in plate form, looks a great deal like Stormy Mountain turquoise because of its black Smokey matrix. This stone features dark smoky swirls with brilliant blue windows. The characteristic black chert is ever-present. This mine is now closed and buried under thousands of tons of rock.
Blue Gem Turquoise
The Blue Gem mine near Battle Mountain, Nevada produced a great variety of Southwest turquoise, from intense blues to deep green combinations with a hard, irregularly distributed matrix. While there are other mines in Nevada of the same name, the Battle Mountain Blue Gem mine, which began production in 1934 and is now closed, yielded the most valuable Blue Gem Southwest turquoise because of its rich color and its hardness. It is greatly desired by collectors.
Blue Opal
| Blue Opal is a relatively rare translucent stone with a color similar to the ocean in tropical waters, Peruvian opal is found only in the Andes Mountains. It is the national stone of Peru. Much of the material found on the market today is dyed white opal, so if the price is inexpensive buyers should be aware that it is probably a dyed stone as natural stones are quite expensive. It is sometimes difficult to differentiate a dyed stone from the natural, but rotating the stone under light may show uneven coloration which is a common result in dyed stones.
As well as occurring naturally, opals of all varieties have been synthesized commercially in laboratory conditions. Synthetic Opals, or lab Opals, are far more stable that natural Opals which are soluble in salt-water and relatively fragile. The man-made process can create the different colors of Opal without dyes. The finished man-made product is very similar in structure to actual Opal but is more durable. The process is very technical and relatively expensive so quality Man-Made Lab Opal is fairly expensive compared to other man-made minerals. |
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Buffalo
| No animal has ever given so much to a people as the largest and most spectacular creature of North America, the great American bison. The Plains Indians depended upon the buffalo for food, shelter, and clothing. The large nomadic herds were a huge part of their life, and the people appealed directly to the Buffalo in prayer. The medicine men called upon the powers of the "spirit buffalo" to help them in rituals. It is told that the spirit of the buffalo will return to reunite the people, thereby mending the Sacred Hoop, which has no ending and no beginning. This will be a time for the prophecies to come together, for people of all colors to understand about Mother Earth, and to have respect for one another and their nations. This will be a time for healing.
Relying as they did on the flesh, skin, and bones of that animal for almost everything they needed - be it food, clothing, shelter, or tools - the people of the Plains addressed prayers directly to the generous buffalo, confident that the animal would serve as their intermediary with the Great Spirit. Those prayers brought many blessings. The sacred peace pipe was given to their ancestors by White Buffalo Calf Woman, a beautiful maiden who, after teaching the Sioux how to use the pipe changed herself into a white buffalo calf. |
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Cabochon
A Cabochon is a stone which has been cut with a rounded convex surface and a flat base. It may be high domed or almost flat and can be cut in round, oval, square or freeform shapes. A cabochon has no facets. This is one of the oldest and simplest cuts. This form of cutting is most often used on stones like turquoise, lapis, opals, various forms of quartz and other opaque and semi-opaque stones which may be cut either freeform or calibrated. Sometimes, lower quality precious and semiprecious stones such as ruby, amethyst, citrine and garnet are also cut en cabochon. By their nature, stones like drusy cannot be domed or polished and it is now common to call any stone that is not faceted a cabochon.
Candelaria Turquoise
The Candelaria Southwest turquoise mine is one of the small, depleted mines in Nevada that produced a good quality Southwest turquoise of high blue color with an intermittent black or brown non-webbed matrix. It has a luminous radiant quality, and is highly collectable. Candelaria also produces some stones with green tones.
Carat
(ct.) is the standard measure of weight used for gemstones. One carat weighs 0.2 gram (1/5 of a gram or 0.0007 ounce). A hundredth of a carat is called a point. Note that karat is the term used to describe the fineness of gold.
Carico Lake Turquoise
Carico Lake turquoise is named after the location of its mine on a dried up lake bed in a high, cool area of Lander County, Nevada. Its clear, iridescent, spring green color is due to its zinc content and is highly unique and collectible. Carico Lake Southwest turquoise is also found in a dark blue-green color with a black, spider web matrix. The Carico Lake mine is primarily a gold producing mine. However, from time to time, the mining company leases the Southwest turquoise producing part of the mine to individual miners who are permitted to work that part. The limited amount of Carico Lake Southwest turquoise and the limited amount of time allowed to mine it combine to make Carico Lake Southwest turquoise a valuable addition to ones collection.
Carnelian
A Carnelian is a form of chalcedony that ranges in color from red to orange. It is a translucent stone that may contain bands of color. This stone has been used to offer protection during travel and is thought to help with diseases of the blood including the relief of menstrual cramps. It is found in India, Australia, Brazil, Germany, Madagascar, Russia, South Africa, and the USA.
Cast
To Cast is the process of making jewelry by pouring molten metal into a mold. Intricate patterns and shapes can be carved into wax from which the mold is made. This process is used to create one of a kind items and is used extensively to mass produce less expensive jewelry items.
Cerrillos Turquoise
Cerrillos is not only an uncommon and unique form of native New Mexican Southwest turquoise, but has a history entwined with both ancient Native peoples of the Southwest and more recent American mining companies. Cerrillos Southwest turquoise was created and mined under unusual circumstances. It is the only Southwest turquoise that formed at the base of a volcano. Thus, a variety of colors developed from the minerals in the various volcanic host stones. In fact, seventy-five colors have been identified, from tan to khaki-green to rich, blue-green to bright and light colors. Cerrillos is a very hard stone and so takes a brilliant polish. In addition to producing a distinctive stone, the Cerrillos mine is the oldest mine of any kind in North America. Located ten miles south of Santa Fe, it was the site of the largest prehistoric mining activity on the continent because the huge southwest turquoise deposit was partially exposed at the surface. Miners from the San Marcos Pueblo, who later moved to Santo Domingo Pueblo south of Santa Fe, most worked the mine. Using only stone axes, mauls, antler picks, and chisels, Pueblo miners removed 100,000 tons of solid rock to create a pit mine 200 feet deep. They dug other vertical shafts into the ground to reach veins of Southwest turquoise. Miners carried tools and leather rock buckets on their backs as they climbed in and out of the shafts using notched logs as ladders. The Southwest turquoise obtained from this hard work traded among early peoples from Mexico to the Midwest and from the east to west coasts. In New Mexico, many pieces of Cerrillos Southwest turquoise for personal and trade use have been unearthed in the prehistoric ruins of Pueblo Bonito in Chaco Canyon. The Pueblo peoples continued to extract Southwest turquoise from the Cerrillos mine until the 1870s when a silver mining boom raised interest in the area. The Tiffany Company in New York and its associates bought up the mine area and extracted $2,000,000 worth of Southwest turquoise between 1892 and 1899.
Charoite
Charoite is a fairly recent discovery found in Russia in 1978 in the Murun mountains in Yakutia, near the Charo River. This is the only known location for this rare mineral. It ranges in color from a light lilac to a deep purple and can be mottled with gray, white and black inclusions. The chatoyant variety in a bright deep purple, is usually considered more valuable than the non-chatoyant variety although both are used in jewelry and compliment a number of other stones.
Chrysocolla
An inexpensive, usually opaque, blue to blueish green mineral, Chrysocolla is most often cut as a cabochon for jewelry purposes but high quality, translucent stones know as "gem chrysocolla" are highly prized and can be considerably higher in cost. Another form is "drusy chrysocolla" where the base stone is covered with tiny clear quartz crystals and is often found in botryoidal form. Chrysocolla was also used by the ancient Greeks as an ornamental stone. Often confused with turquoise, it is a copper bearing mineral found wherever copper deposits occur in Australia, Chile, Democratic Republic of Congo, England, Israel, France and Zaire with notable deposits Arizona, Utah, New Mexico and Pennsylvania in the USA.
Citrine
Citrine is a variety of quartz ranging in colors of yellow, yellow-brown, orange, dark orange-brown, or reddish-brown. Brazil is the leading producer of naturally mined citrine, however, most commercial citrine on the market today is actually artificially heated amethyst or smoky quartz. Citrine crystals may form together with amethyst or smoky quartz to form a BI-colored quartz called ametrine. The name comes from the French word for lemon, "citron".
Coral
Coral is the skeletal remains of marine animals called coral polyps. These are tiny creatures that live in colonies and build branching structures of calcium carbonate and the colonies grow to reefs and atolls. The surface of the coral branches can show the patterns made by the animals, sometimes striped or like a wood grain. Coral comes in several colors such as white, pink, salmon, and red which is the most valuable. The most precious coral is found in warm waters such as the coasts of Japan, around the Mediterranean Sea, the Red Sea, and around Africa. In some areas, coral is said to protect children, and parents may give their young children a gift of coral. Coral polishes well, but is sensitive to heat, acids, cosmetics, and ultrasonic exposure.
Cripple Creek Turquoise
The Cripple Creek in Teller County, Colorado is the site of a number of small gold mines. Cripple Creek Southwest turquoise is found primarily as a by-product of gold mining. This area yields some greenish Southwest turquoise, and some light to dark blue Southwest turquoise with brown matrix.
Crow Springs Turquoise
Crow Springs, also known as AnnJax or Bluebird, is located near Tonopah, Nevada and 27 miles, as the crow flies, from the Royston Southwest turquoise mine. For 12 years, this rare stone has not been available until 3 years ago, when Dennis and Lucy Cordova took it over and began mining it again. The Smith family previously owned the mine. This family had been mining Southwest turquoise in Nevada since the 1870s. In 1909, William Petry discovered a deposit one mile southwest of the Crow Springs claim. In 1939, Ann Cooper Hewitt, heiress to the Cooper Hewitt fortune, made from inventing the mercury-vapor lamp and the first fluorescent lighting, filed claim to the mine and built a home there, which she called AnnJax. She did little work on the property and then abandoned it.
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Dangle Earring
Dangle Earrings are a long earring that extends below the ear lobe.
Dine People
The Dine People are a unique group of people still living the traditional life with many oral stories passed down to the younger generation through the Dine language. The Navajo people have returned to their original name given to them by their holy people. The Dine land on top of Oak Creek Canyon is the largest reservation established for the Dine, covering about 25,000 sq. miles of land, which is located in the Southwest in parts of Arizona, Utah, New Mexico, and Colorado. The Dine People believe they live within the Four Sacred Mountains.
Dry Creek Turquoise
The Dry Creek mine, which has also been known as the Godber and Burnham mine, is located in northeast Nevada. The mine has yielded both a pale blue and a cream white Southwest turquoise. The unusual white to light blue Southwest turquoise is very hard, the color due to a preponderance of aluminum rather than copper in the stones chemistry. The matrix is typically light golden or brown-gray to gray-black. White Southwest turquoise is beautiful alone in a piece of jewelry and is especially striking when juxtaposed with other colors of Southwest turquoise in a single creation.
Domed
A convex shape like the outside surface of a ball or sphere. This shape is often used in earrings, pendants and components of jewelry dsigns.
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Embossed
Process used in silverwork where the piece is decorated or shaped by a raised design.
Enchantment Turquoise
The mine discovered in 1996, by a gold miner while prospecting, is named the Lost Mine of Enchantment. It is located in a mining district near the town of Ruidoso in the Sacramento Mountains of southeastern New Mexico. It is the first new mine discovered in New Mexico since the days of Coronado in the 1500s. Enchantment Southwest turquoise is a very high quality Southwest turquoise that often shows a deep green color with tan or golden brown matrix, but can range to a deep, rich blue. The green is influenced by the iron content in the stone, the blue by the copper content.
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Facet
One of the flat polished surfaces cut on a gemstone which allow the cut stone to sparkle and reflect light. Diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, and rubies are normally faceted.
Fetish
Used and made by all Southwestern Indian tribes, fetishes are objects which represent the spirits of animals or the forces of nature. Original fetishes were simple stones (or shells, turquoise or bone) which seemed to resemble people or animals, sometimes made more realistic by a carver. The Zuni people have the reputation of being the most skilled at fetish carving. Zuni tradition has six directions, each with its guardian animal fetish: the mountain lion, north, the bear, west; the badger, south; the eagle, the sky, or up; the mole, underground, or down; and the wolf, east.
French wire
A curved wire resembling a fish hook which passes through the pierced earlobe and has a catch closure. It is mostly used with dangle earrings due to their extra weight.
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Gaspeite
Gaspeite is considered a rare mineral, being found in only a few localities, but it is becoming a popular mineral in the semi-precious stone markets. It is being used as a cabochon in sterling silver jewelry with such notable minerals and material as turquoise, < malachite, azurite, onyx and coral. Gaspeites light green, almost apple green color is quite unique and not hard to mistake. It real accents the banded greens of malachite and the blue green of turquoise. Carved material is generally homogenous, but it may contain portions of its brownish host rock which may give it a distinctive character.
Gecko
The Western Banded Gecko is a species of gecko found in the southwestern United States (southern California, southwest New Mexico, southern Arizona, Utah, Nevada and northern Mexico Sonora, northwest Baja California). Western banded geckos are terrestrial lizards, ranging in length from 4 - 6in. The body is sandy colored with dark bands broken into patches. The tiny scales give its skin a silky texture. Unlike typical geckos, it has prominent eyes with movable lids. A secretive and nocturnal gecko, they forage at night for small insects and spiders. If captured, they squeak and may discard their tail. As a defense mechanism they may also curl their tail over their body to mimic a scorpion. Females lay 2 soft-shelled eggs at a time.
Gold-Filled
A plating of gold at least 10K where the weight of the piece equals 1/20th of the total weight of the piece. Jewelry actually filled but is made of base metal (usually brass or copper) covered by sheets of gold in a bonding process.
H
Hallmark
A Hallmark is the official mark stamped or inscribed in metal which indicates the fineness of the metal and the manufacturer. For example, a hallmark of 925 indicates the piece is 92.5% fine silver while a mark of 14K indicates the piece is 14/24 gold (see karat). Hallmarks also indicate the maker of the piece. In Britain, a hallmark is required by law and it is illegal to incorrectly mark the metal content. In the United States hallmarks are not required by law, but are customarily used by artists and designers.
Hardness
Hardness is measured using the Mohs Scale of Hardness. A substances hardness value indicates the materials resistance to scratching and grades minerals on a comparative scale from 1 (very soft) to 10 (very hard).. In the Mohs scale, a mineral of a given hardness rating will scratch other minerals of the same rating, as well as any minerals of a lower rating. For example, sapphires and rubies have a Mohs rating of 9 and will scratch each other, as well as any mineral with a rating lower than 9. However, they will not scratch diamonds, which are rated 10. The Mohs scale of mineral hardness was devised by the German mineralogist Frederich Mohs (1773-1839) in 1812.
Heishi
A Pueblo term literally meaning shell; discs or tubes with a hole in the center, usually of turquoise, coral, shell, or other materials, strung together to form a flexible strand, often of graduated size. The Santo Domingo Pueblo people are known for fine heishi.
Hoop Earring
A circular earring made from metal wire or tubing.
Hopi
A tribe in Northern Arizona, known for distinctive overlay silver jewelry, pottery and Kachina dolls.
Howlite
Howlite found in green, white and blue. It is a super-calming stone and many people use it to relieve stress of all kinds. It makes an excellent antidote to insomnia due to an overactive mind. Focusing on a piece of howlite can assist in journeying outside the body and gaining insight from past lives. Placed on the third eye, it opens memories of previous times and lifetimes.
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Indian Mountain Turquoise
The best known of the contemporary mines originally discovered by a Native American. The lode was discovered in 1970 by a Shoshone sheepherder who stumbled upon a vein of Southwest turquoise on a hillside while tending his sheep. Eddy Mauzy and his family subsequently mined and marketed Southwest turquoise from this site to top Southwest Indian artisans, and jewelry featuring unique Southwest turquoise Mountain was first featured prominently in Arizona Highways magazine in the late 1970s.
Inlay
| Inlay is a decorative technique using stone, mother of pearl or even glass. It is embedded into another material such as metal or wood resulting in a level surface of the two materials. Inlay is used in jewelry with stones and in furniture with stone or different woods to create a design. The Zuni Indians used this technique in their jewelry by making a mosaic of different colored stones and bezel setting them in rings, bracelets and pendants.
The Zuni Indians learned to silversmith from the Navajo in the early 1870's. The Zuni, because they had permanent homes unlike the nomadic Navajo, were able to use many tools that the Navajo could not easily carry with them. With the lapidary wheels they began cutting stones and using the silver to hold their stones in patterns. Today, Zuni silversmiths are known for their lapidary skills. Both channel inlay (using precisely cut stones set on silver to form figures and designs) and cluster and needlepoint (setting small, similarly cut stones in geometric patterns) are traditional Zuni styles. |
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Jet
Jet is a product of high pressure decomposition of wood from millions of years ago, commonly the wood of trees of the Araucariaceae family. Jet is found in two forms, hard and soft. Hard jet is the result of the carbon compression and salt water; soft jet is the result of the carbon compression and fresh water. Jet is easily polished and is used in manufacturing jewelery, according to the Whitby Museum, dating from 10,000 BC in parts of contemporary Germany. The oldest jet jewelery was found in Asturias, Spain, dating from 17,000 BC. Jet as a gem material was highly popular during the reign of Queen Victoria, during which the Queen wore Whitby jet as part of her mourning dress. Jet was popular for mourning jewelry in the 19th century because of its sombre color and modest appearance, and it has been traditionally fashioned into rosaries for monks.
In the United States, long necklaces of jet beads were very popular during the 1920s, or Roaring Twenties, when women and young flappers would wear multiple strands of jet beads stretching from the neckline to the waistline. In these necklaces, the jet was strung using heavy cotton thread; small knots were made on either side of each bead to keep the beads spaced evenly, much in the same way that fine pearl necklaces are made. Jet has also been known as black amber, as it may induce an electric charge like that of amber when rubbed. Powdered jet added to water or wine was believed to have medicinal powers.
Jade
An opaque, semiprecious stone found in shades of green, light purple, yellow, pink and creamy white shades. The term jade is often used to describe both jadeite and nephrite which are similar in appearance and use. The best quality jade comes from Myanmar (formerly Burma). Jade is not only a hard stone, 6.5 to 7 on the Mohs scale, but is also an extremely tough stone which allows it to be cut as a solid piece and used for a ring or bracelet.
K
Kingman Turquoise
The Kingman mine in northwestern Arizona is one of the largest southwest turquoise mines in the southwest. Kingman blue has become a color standard in the industry. The mine became famous for its rounded bright blue nuggets with black matrix. Few Southwest turquoise mines produced nuggets, especially of this high grade. Natural Kingman is highly collectible. Some of the finest specimens of Kingman were mined in the 1960s.
Kokopelli
Kokopellis has been worshipped since at least the time of the Ancient Pueblo Peoples. The first known images of him appear on Hohokam pottery dated to sometime between AD 750 and AD 850.
Kokopelli may have originally been a representation of ancient Aztec traders, known as pochtecas, who traveled to this region from northern Mesoamerica. These traders brought their goods in sacks slung across their backs and this sack may have evolved into Kokopellis familiar hump in fact, many tribes make Kokopelli a trader in this way.These men also used flutes to announce themselves as friendly as they approached a settlement. This origin is still in doubt, however, since the first known images of Kokopelli predate the major era of Aztec-Anasazi trade by several hundred years.
Kokopelli and Kokopelli Mana as depicted by the Hopi.Another theory is that Kokopelli is actually an anthropomorphic insect. Many of the earliest depictions of Kokopelli make him very insect-like in appearance. The name "Kokopelli" may be a combination of "Koko", another Hopi and Zuni deity, and "pelli", the Hopi and Zuni word for the desert robber fly, an insect with a prominent proboscis and a rounded back, which is also noted for its zealous sexual proclivities. A more recent etymology is that Kokopelli means literally "kachina hump". Because the Hopi were the tribe from whom the Spanish explorers first learned of the god, their name is the one most commonly used.
Kokopelli is one of the most easily recognized figures found in the petroglyphs and pictographs of the Southwest. The earliest known petroglyph of the figure dates to about A.D. 1000.Kokopelli was one of several kachina dolls sold to tourists. The Spanish missionaries in the area convinced the Hopi craftsmen to omit the phallus from their representations of the figure. As with most kachina dolls, the Hopi Kokopelli was often represented by a human dancer. These dancers apparently had great fun with missionaries and tourists by making obscene and sexual gestures that the foreigners did not understand.
A similar humpbacked figure is found in artifacts of the Mississippian culture of the U.S. southeast. Between approximately 1200 to 1400 AD, water vessels were crafted in the shape of a humpbacked woman. These forms may represent a cultural heroine or founding ancestor, and may also reflect concepts related to the life-giving blessings of water and fertility.
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Lab Created or Synthetic
Gemstones that are made in a laboratory rather than those found in nature are called lab created or synthetic. These stones arent considered fake because they have the same chemical characteristics, specific gravity and properties as the natural stone. Although lab created gems are usually flawless, they are typically less expensive than natural stones because it is less costly to produce them in a lab than it is to mine them. Some of the most common stones created in a lab are ruby, emerald, sapphire and opal (Gilson).
Lapidary
Lapidary is the art of cutting gemstones. A lapidary is one who cuts and polishes stones.
Lapis Lazuli
Lapis Lazuli (Lazurite)Top quality lapis is a strong blue, sometimes with a hint of violet. The value of lapis decreases with the presence of white patches (calcite),but small veins of pyrite can increase the value (presence of pyrite is often a personal preference). The finest Lapis Lazuli comes from Afghanistan where it has been mined for centuries. It is also found in Siberia, Chile, the U.S., Pakistan, and Canada.
Lever Back
An earring for non-pierced ears that bends and latches behind the ear.
Liquid Silver
A type of necklace or bracelet constructed of very thin, fine, small silver cylinders originally strung on catgut, now strung on fine wire.
Lone Mountain Turquoise
The Lone Mountain Southwest turquoise mine is located in Esmeralda County, Nevada. The Southwest turquoise is noted for its ability to hold its color and not fade. Usually found in nodules, Lone Mountain Southwest turquoise ranges in color from clear blue to spider-web. This mine has also been known as Blue Jay Mine. Because Lone Mountain Southwest turquoise holds its beautiful blue color well, it is a valued addition to ones jewelry collection.
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Malachite
Malachite is a hydrous carbonate of copper, is a popular opaque stone with bands of green and black. Many beautiful specimens of malachite contain other minerals, such as azurite, cuprite, or chrysocolla. Malachite can be found in Zaire, USSR, Germany, France, England, Chile, Rhodesia, Australia, Arizona and New Mexico. It is a relatively soft stone.
| Malachite comes from copper ore, thus exuding a green appearance. Its origin dates back to ancient Egypt and as with several other precious stones, was believed to possess magical powers. Quality Malachite is relatively rare and highly esteemed by mineral collectors for its deep rainforest green hues that often alternate with lighter green hues in a linear pattern. Malachite is used for making beads, carved figurines, and cabochons (cut stones). However, larger quantities have been used in certain palace walls and buildings in Russia.
Tumbled stones of malachite are possibly the most popular tumbled stones ever and are sold in literally every rock shop around the world. Carvings and figurines of malachite are almost as common. A skilled craftsman can make the concentric malachite bands follow the curves of a work of art like contours on a rugged terrain. Although malachite art is not as precious as jade; it is hard to argue that it is less beautiful. Malachite is also popular in jewelry, Native American Southwestern jewelry especially. The stones inlaid in silver make a nice variance from the traditional turquoise jewelry. Instead of competing with Turquoise, the two stones tend to compliment each other when placed together in the same settings. The minerals are related and have the same copper influence. Other stones such as coral, mother-of-pearl, Azurite, jasper and onyx also compliment malachite's green colors and are typically used with malachite in handcrafted inlay jewelry. |
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Man in the maze
| The man in the Maze is an emblem of the Tohono Oodham Nation of Southern Arizona. The design, depicting a man exiting a labyrinth, is most often seen on basketry dating back as far as the nineteenth century, and occasionally in Hopi silver art. Labyrinths are common motifs in ancient petroglyphs and often resemble those found in ancient Greece and other parts of the world. This symbol is said to represent a persons journey through life. Although the design appears to be a maze, it is actually a unicursal figure with many twists and turns; said to represent choices made in life.
There is a Pima Indian legend that explains when a person is born into this world, they enter a maze of life. The entrance is at the top where Se-eh-ha (Elder Brother) is waiting to show the way. The legend tells of the dead ends, detours and obstacles. It's the struggle to understand what can affect the physical, emotional, and spiritual growth that can guide them through the maze. At each turn, there is an opportunity to understand and appreciate the cycle of life, and to gain strength to move toward their goals. If the path is traveled in harmony and with a balance with nature, the legend says that dreams and ambitions will be found at the center of the maze, where E-e-thoi (Sun God) waits. He then passes them on to the next world. |
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Manassa Turquoise
| Manassa Southwest Turquoise is mined at Manassa in south central Colorado, but began its mining days with Ancient Pueblo peoples. The Manassa mine is also known as the Kings Manassa. The name comes from I.P. King, the gold miner who rediscovered this vein of Southwest turquoise and whose descendants still mine the site. It is known for its blue-green to green color with a golden or brown, non-webbed matrix. The golden matrix comes from the host rock, rhyolite. The Manassa mine is still in production, and owned by the King family, thus the alternate name sometimes used for this Southwest turquoise. This stone is easier to obtain than some other Southwest turquoises. |
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Marcasite
Crystallized iron pyrite with a gray metallic luster. Often used in sterling silver jewelry.
Matte Finish
Jewelry which has a non-reflective metal surface is referred to as having a matte finish as opposed to jewelry that is highly polished. The surface will appear frosted, uniformly scratched or brushed and is created using various techniques including a chemical processes, sand blasting, tumble polishing or created by hand using abrasives.
Morenci Turquoise
Morenci Southwest turquoise is mined in southeastern Arizona. It is high to light blue in color. Morenci has an unusual matrix of irregular black pyrite that, when polished, often looks like silver. Morenci Southwest turquoise is well known because it was one of the first American Southwest turquoises to come on the market. It is very difficult to obtain now because the mine is depleted. It is a collectible Southwest turquoise.
Mother of Pearl
The iridescent material on the inside surface of mollusk shells. This material can be sliced thin and used on watch dials or as an inlay in other types of jewelry. Mother-of-pearl is most commonly milky white but also comes in other colors, such as silvery gray, gray-blue and pink.
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Nickel Silver
Nickel Silver (also called German silver) is a white metal alloy of 70% copper, 20% zinc and 10% nickel. It contains no silver. Many people are allergic to nickel and because of this, the use of nickel silver in jewelry has been outlawed in some countries.
Number Eight Southwest Turquoise
The No. 8 Southwest turquoise mine in Carlin, Nevada was first mined in 1929 until its depletion. In its prime, No. 8 produced some of the largest nuggets of Southwest turquoise found. A spider web matrix of colors ranging from golden brown to black set off the unique bright powder blue background of the stone. No. 8 Southwest turquoise is a very valuable acquisition. The Number 8 Southwest turquoise mine in Carlin, Nevada was first mined in 1929. In its prime, Number 8 produced some of the largest nuggets of Southwest turquoise ever found. A spider web matrix of colors ranging from golden brown to black set off the unique bright powder blue background. Of the ten claims in a 20-acre area, the Number 8 claimed by the Blue Star Company in Lander County is considered the finest example of the gold-webbed Southwest turquoise. The mine was depleted in 1961. Approximately 5,000 pounds were mined between 1929-1933. In 1950 a nodule weighing 150 pounds was found. It is now at the Covered Wagon in Old Town Albuquerque, New Mexico. The host rock is naturally altered quartz monzonite shale and thinly beaded black chert.
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Onyx
- A variety of chalcedony quartz, often with parallel banding. When chalcedony is variegated it is called agate. Black onyx may be opaque or translucent and although it does occur naturally in black, it is usually dyed to darken its color. White onyx is a semi translucent white to whitish-yellow stone that was often used in Victorian jewelry for cameos. It has a hardness of between 6.5 - 7 on the Mohs scale.
Opal
Most opal is 50-65 million years old, dating back to the time of dinosaurs in the Cretaceous period. Opal formed as silica from decomposing rocks that mixed with ground water and formed a silica gel that hardened in underground cavities and fissures.There are two distinct types of opal, common and precious. The way the silica particles form determines which type. In precious opal, silica particles are packed in regular rows and layers. Moving the stone causes light to diffract, or split, as it grazes the opal surface. This light diffusion shows iridescent flashes of green, blue, aqua and sometimes yellowish or red colors which are referred to as "fire". Opal is found in a wide range of colors including: green, blue, aqua, and pink. See opal varieties and boulder opal for more in depth discussions about this wonderful gemstone.
Overlay
Overlay jewelry is made of sterling silver. There are just about every type of jewelry made today, from small post earrings to two inch wide bracelets. Jewelry is made for both male and females, for men, from rings to bolo ties, watch tips to belt buckles, and for ladies just about everything. From small post earrings to 3" dangle earrings, pendants, pins, watch tips, bracelets, hair broaches and rings.
The Hopi Indian artisans have been making sterling jewelry since the 1900s. Overlay jewelry was started in the mid fifties, overlay means there are two layers of silver, a top design is usually a symbol of rain clouds, lightning, flute players, animals, insects, clan symbols, birds, bear paws, pottery designs, plants etc. These designs are cut out with a fine cutting blades and soldered onto a second layer, thus referred to as Overlay Jewelry.
The designs are again centered around the universe of Hopi. Other designs are centered around kachinas and the traditional pueblo homes you may see in today's crafts. Today more of the young aspiring artist are working with gold and inlay stones, these stones are cut to size and mounted.
Jewelry can be made in quantities at a time, although each product is handmade. Each design is created by the artist and is usually the only one that can duplicate the design. The personal hallmarks are then stamped in the back for markings which usually represent the clan or name of the artist.
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Paiute Southwest Turquoise
The Paiute Southwest turquoise mine shares a mountain with the Godber and Burnham mines in central Nevada. While claims at the Paiute site date back to 1974, the Paiute mine has been actively productive since 1992. It produces limited quantities of high-grade spider web Southwest turquoise. It has a wide graduation of blue tone, from light to dark, with web matrix in colors of black, orange, brown and red. It is a hard Southwest turquoise and is very collectible.
Pewter
Pewter is an alloy of tin, lead, antimony, and a bit of silver or copper. Pewter was the most widely used metal in America between the early 1700 and 1800s. The best pewter is achieved using a low lead content and a high tin content. As you would expect, U.S. pewter manufacturers today are required to make lead free pewter. Both copper and antimony are added to the tin to make a harder metal alloy.
Pilot Mountain Turquoise
The Pilot Mountain mine is located in western Nevada, east of the small town of Mina. As with most southwest turquoise mines, this mine opened as a copper claim. Pilot Mountain Southwest turquoise was first mined around 1930 as a tunnel mine. Then it became an open pit mine when heavy equipment was available around 1970. The current owners of the claim have been mining the Southwest turquoise since 1989. While Pilot Mountain is considered an active mine, it is a very small operation. The miners go to the mine twice per year, bringing out only about 150 to 200 lbs. of rough stone each time.
Pin / Pendant
A piece of jewelry that may be worn as either a pin or brooch or as a pendant. Sometimes this is accomplished by slipping a small tube with an attached bail over the pin stem when the piece is to be worn as a pendant. In other cases, the bail is hidden on the back of the piece just above where the pin stem is located.
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Quartz
A crystalline mineral that comes in many natural varieties that are used for gems. Pure quartz is usually colorless and transparent when polished.
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Reconstituted
This is a term applied to stones which are made by using small chips, powder and ground up low grade stones, binding or fusing them with a plastic resin (epoxy) and compressing them into blocks. The blocks are then cut into beads, cabochons, and slabs. In some cases, the stone is actually made from "real" turquoise, amber, lapis or similar stone, but often the reconstituted stones are nothing more than low grade rocks, like howlite, that have been dyed and compressed to look like the real gemstone. Ambroid is a form of reconstituted amber made from real amber pieces, but is should be classified as imitation because of the epoxy resin content. It is made from scraps and shavings of amber that are heated and pressed into large blocks. Insects found in ambroid are usually fully intact, without broken body parts, as they were dead when added to the block. Insects found in real amber usually have broken wings and legs caused when they tried to escape from the sticky tree resin. Reconstituted turquoise is manmade from pulverized pieces of turquoise that are stabilized and compressed with plastic resins to which dye is added and should be sold as "simulated" or "imitation" turquoise. However, this form is often used in much of the mass produced inlay jewelry.
Royston Turquoise
Royston is a Southwest turquoise mine located within the Royston District in the southwestern part of Nevada. The Royston District consists of several mines including Royston, Royal Blue, Oscar Wehrend and Bunker Hill. The mines in this district were discovered as early as 1902; in fact, Royston is the oldest patented mine in Nevada. While Royston is considered an active mine, it is a very small operation. The miners go to the mine only twice per year. Royston was originally a tunnel mine, but is now an open pit mine. Royston is a good producer of high quality stones. According to one of the current miners, Royston Southwest turquoise is known as grass roots which means the best deposits are found within ten feet of the surface. Royston Southwest turquoise is known for its beautiful deep green to rich light blue colors. These unique color ranges are what make this stone so special. Royston stones are often two-tone, displaying both dark and light green and sometimes blue. Royston has a heavy matrix ranging from dark brown to gold in color. This matrix makes for beautiful combinations with the color variations of the stone. Royston Southwest turquoise is considered very collectible as well as a historically important investment.
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Sandcast
A type of jewelry-making whereby metal is cast in stone molds for form.
Santo Domingo
One of the eight Northern Pueblos, best known for heishi bead necklaces formed from turquoise and shells; also unique, traditional pottery and some silversmithing.
Satin Finish
A finish that has a soft luster instead of a bright polish.
Semi Precious Stones
A group of gemstones that are prized for their beauty but are not one of the four so-called precious stones (onyx, turquoise, lapis or opal).
Setting
A means of attaching a gemstone to jewelry.
Shank
The circular part of a ring that fits around the finger.
Southwest Squash Blossoms
A traditional adornment for many Native Americans, especially the Navajo, and has been for many centuries. It has been worn not only by women and little girls, also by men of status such as medicine men and chiefs. The Southwest Squash Blossom necklace gets its name from the silver beads that have petal-like additions. It is the desire of most women to own one of these Southwest squash necklaces because it is the quintessence Native American necklace. Many women believe these necklaces look too heavy to wear. You will not find an item of jewelry that will receive more complements than when you are wearing one! An authentic Southwest Native American Indian made sterling silver and turquoise squash blossom is what we call heirloom quality. It is worth the investment and it will repay you with a great feeling every time you wear it for as long as you own it.
Spiny Oyster Shell
The orange shell of the Spiny Oyster has been used in Native American jewelry for centuries. Its color ranges from deep red-orange to a pale orange and almost yellow, sometimes with white banding. Lighter and darker shades often alternate together in streaks. This semi-precious material is often used like coral, set next to Turquoise. Spiny Oyster shell is naturally relatively thin and hard so it makes great tiles for inlay work.
Sterling Silver
Sterling is silver with a fineness of 925 parts per thousand or 92.5% silver and 75 parts per thousand or 7.5% copper. Copper is added to the alloy to increase the silvers hardness.
Sleeping Beauty Turquoise
| The Sleeping Beauty mine is seven miles outside of Globe, Arizona. It is noted for its solid, light blue color with no matrix. The host rock is usually granite. Sleeping Beauty Southwest turquoise is the favorite of the Zuni Pueblo silversmiths for use in petite point, needlepoint and inlay jewelry. This mine is one of the largest in North America. Monty Nichols, owner and miner of the Sleeping Beauty mine, says that the mine is producing about 1600 pounds a month. Of that, only 4% is natural. Most of the Southwest turquoise from the mine, 80-90%, is altered in some way. Most of that percentage is enhanced, which is more expensive than stabilization, and sold to large distributors in this country and Europe. Now, most of the Southwest turquoise that comes out of that mine comes from the tons of tailings piles that have been accumulating all these years. |
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Stormy Mountain Turquoise
This mine, along with the Blue Diamond mine, is distinctive for producing hard, dark blue Southwest turquoise that includes a blotchy, black chert matrix that resembles storm clouds, hence the name Stormy Mountain. The mine is not presently active.
Storyteller
The person acknowledged within the Native American community as the one who verbally passes on historical and cultural beliefs. Helen Cordero, Cochiti Pueblo, was the first to depict a storyteller, surrounded by children, in clay. Corderos Storyteller is on display at the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe.
Sugilite
is a medium to dark purple semi-precious gemstone (it can also range from pink to brown to black). It is usually opaque with a waxy luster (but can be translucent) and often has brown, pink and white inclusions, looking like a purple version of turquoise. This stone was named for Ken-ichi Sugi, the Japanese geologist who discovered it in 1944. It is found in Iwagi Island, Shikoku, Japan and Mont Saint-Hilaire, Quebec, Canada, but the largest deposits are in northern South Africa.
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Turquoise
A semi-precious stone used in Indian jewelry, found in arid regions. Colors range from blue to green yellow; natural: the stone as it is mined; stabilized: chemically hardened; treated: color altered; reconstituted: dust chips and plastic made into jewelry.
Tyrone Turquoise
Southwest turquoise from the Tyrone mine was associated with the copper mine operations southwest of Silver City, New Mexico. That mine is currently owned by Phelps Dodge. However, Southwest accessing to crushing and acid wash. That method destroys any Southwest turquoise in the copper ore. The Tyrone Southwest turquoise in new jewelry is from private stashes.It is medium brilliant blue in its high grade form. Tyrone Southwest turquoise is part of the mineral band that starts east of Silver City and curves around through Arizona and the Morenci Southwest turquoise mine area into Mexico. Today it is valued for both its beauty and rarity.
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Vermeil
Vermeil is gold-plated sterling silver. Gold-plating of base metals such as brass or bronze are sometimes erroneously referred to as vermeil. When base metals are plated with thin layers of gold, they should be referred to as gold plated, not vermeil.
